#19: Peru & Chile, Winter-Spring 2011

For several months, I lived just outside of Cuzco, Peru, and let me tell you, living there may not have been my cup of tea for several reasons, but it is most certainly a fantastic vacation destination! There's so much to see that your Peruvian vacation will be jam-packed, so make sure you take plenty of time off work to fit everything in! While I was there, I backpacked down to Arica & San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, and that was definitely a cool trip in itself and well worth it.

As for Peru, don't waste your time in Lima. There are a couple of cool things to do and see in Lima but nothing compared to what you'll experience in Cuzco. I've heard northern Peru is beautiful, but I spent most of my time in southern Peru, and I'm certainly glad I did. I worked at "the house in Huambutio," as we called it, and I taught English to children. I also acted as a teacher's aid a few times for an English teacher at the nearby school, and I held a class for children and adults at a nearby government building. But most of my work was done at the house in Huambutio. While I was there, I not only got to teach and get to know the children who lived nearby and see how much they loved to learn different trades and languages in their classes, but I spent a lot of my free time hiking to nearby ruins. There are Inca ruins all over Peru, and the scenery all around you - huge, ruggid mountains - are breath-taking. I did so many things in southern Peru, like milk the neighbor's cow; attend some of the other teachers' classes (like French class, Peruvian lyre-playing, and tela-climbing;) see the ancient Incan tombs of Qoricancha; hike to "Christ the Redeemer" (the secondary one overlooking Cuzco, not the original one in Brazil, unfortunately;) tour a local woman's house where she taught everyone how to dye cotton to make clothing; see the Salinas de Maras (salt pools;) learn the art of macrame, eat lunch in Urubamba, visit Inca ruins such as Saqsaywaman, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, Moray, and Pisaq and Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley; see about a billion llamas and hold a baby llama; party with the most awesome travel friends in a few excellent backpackers hostels (Cuzco's Wild Rover, for the win;) explore some awe-striking architecture (mostly churches and cathedrals;) see condors at Colca Canyon outside of Arequipa (the deepest canyon in the world;) and try Mate de Coca, Inca Kola, Chicha Morada, and Frutillada (yuck!) But the most incredible part of my trip were the ruins that everyone knows of and aspires to see one day: Machu Picchu. I took a 4-day hiking/biking/driving tour from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, the city below Machu Picchu. (Machu Picchu is located on the top of an enormous mountain.) Once in Aguas Calientes, the people I toured with and I partied quite a bit in the ciy and bathed in the hot baths that the city is known for. Since Machu Picchu opened at 6am, we all only got a little sleep after partying the night before and started our trek at 4am in pouring rain and pitch black at night/early morning. I was a bit sick and exhausted from trekking through mountains for 4 days straight, and I tell you, that trek was not for the weak of heart, but I made it to the top of Machu Picchu 3 hours after starting the hike. And the view was more than worth it. The other best part of Peru were the friends I made. I made a group of friends there, and I don't think I would've met them if I hadn't been a solo traveler. There is definitely something to be said for dealing with a little loneliness on your travels; you meet all kinds of incredible people along the way, which make the entire trip worth it.

If you decide you want to experience all of this in Cuzco, stay at a hostel in the Plaza de Armas, or the main square. There's tons to do there. In one small area, you'll find restaurants, bars, clubs, spas, and tourist agencies who will put together adventures for you. And just around the corner, there is an outdoor market for all your grocery needs.

As for Chile, I backpacked into a coastal city at the very top of Chile called Arica, and there wasn't a whole lot to do there besides some shopping and enjoying the beach. Everyone said to only ever try Ceviche in a South American city near the coast, because that's where it's the best, so I did, and I must say, it was awful. I'll never eat Ceviche again. If you want to try it, keep in mind that it is uncooked fish. Although the Ceviche was a bust, the drinks were not. Pisco is the liquor of Peru and Chile, and Chileans love to make sours out of everything, so I tried a Pisco Sour, and it was pretty good, but I prefer a Mango Sour and an Amaretto Sour I had at other restaurants. The best beer I found in Chile was Kunstmann Miel, a honey beer. I was only 19, and being from the United States, I was not able to drink legally back home, so I had to drink as much as possible while I lived in South America! The legal drinking age in South America is 18, but in the places I went, the bartender will pretty serve anyone and everyone. I was never asked for an ID. The neatest city I visited in Chile was San Pedro de Atacama, which is quite a bit farther south than Arica. It is in the middle of the Atacama Desert, so it's hot, except for the salt flat and Tatio Geyser area, but it was such a neat little town with a lot to do. I visited the Salar de Atacama (the second largest salt flat in the world,) 2 beautiful lagoons, the Valley of the Cactus (if you want to see a million cacti,) Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley,) Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley,) and the Tatio Geysers. You can take a dip in the hot springs at the geysers, which is nice, because the air around the geysers is so freezing cold.

The great thing about traveling in South America is that there is easy, cheap public transportation everywhere, and it's so easy to get around, especially if you know some Spanish. Granted, by far, most people in Peru and Chile do NOT speak English, so you need to learn a little Spanish in order to get around on public transportation easily, but I met a few friends in South America that knew all of two words in Spanish and still got around the continent easily. I took buses pretty much everywhere I went, but taxis are really cheap and common in both Peru and Chile too. When you want to get off the bus, just yell "baja!" loud enough for the driver to hear, and he will let you off.

Make sure to pack loose-fitting, cool clothing if you decide to take this trip. It gets pretty cold at night too, so much sure to pack a decent jacket, as well as a warm sleeping bag for extra comfort at night. Many places, like REI, sell some really comfortable (albeit very expensive) ones that fold up SO tiny that they are easy to travel with. And then, if you decide to go to the Tatio Geysers and/or the Salar de Atacama in San Pedro de Atacama, then you need to pack as many layers as possible, because it's freezing in those areas. It's a good idea to pack some bug spray, although the bugs aren't near as bad in Peru and Chile as they are in other places in South America. If you backpack through Peru and Chile, take a rucksack, not a suitcase; this is a "roughin' it" kind of trip - for people who like to exercise and don't mind getting a little dirty. It's not for someone who wants to stay in a 5-star hotel.

Speaking of which, hostels are a dime a dozen - on every street corner - in Peru and Chile, and they are mostly very cheap, but all of them that I've stayed in have hot shower water. Many of them have kitchens for you to cook if you don't want to spend all your money on food. However, food is cheap in Peru and Chile, so you won't break bank on this trip. I recommend eating at some mom & pop restaurants while you're there, because those are the best eats. The food is so fresh and straight from the ground in Peru and Chile that, for the first time in my life, I lost tons of weight without even trying. And of course, I gained it right back after going back home to the U.S.

I do have a couple of regrets from each country. I regret not flying over the Nazca Lines in Cuzco and not seeing Lake Titicaca in Puno, Peru. As for Chile, I regret not making it down into Santiago, or better yet, into Patagonia in the south. Patagonia is supposed to be the most incredibly beautiful area of the world to visit, and there are some incredible marble caves in Patagonia, Chile. If I could go back and do it all over again, I would try to incorporate these things into my time in South America, but it is a bit hard to travel that far into Chile, as the country is so long.

As for anywhere you travel, you should watch out for crooks, mostly in the form of cab drivers who try to charge you more than he/she should, because they know you probably don't know the exchange rate. Nothing should cost a whole lot in Peru. Also, before I went to Peru, I was warned about trick ATMs; if the ATM sucks the card all the way into the machine, don't use that ATM, if possible. I don't know if it's just a myth or the truth, but apparently, some ATMs may be rigged to read and steal your card information. Also, one time, a kid tried to trick my friend and me into paying for a shoe shine. However, there isn't much to worry about in Peru or Chile safety-wise. The only thing I would caution you about is how intense the locals of Cuzco can be. They will drive you crazy if you stay too long. Not only are they not interested in becoming your friend, because they aren't very friendly to newcomers, but the main problem is the workers. Store and restaurant employees, as well as street vendors, will harass you to buy something from them, block your path, and even grab your arm to make you stay. They don't mean to scare you; they just have no sense of boundaries. You probably won't see any beggars, as Peruvians tend to try to work for their money, so they almost always have something to sell if they need money, but street vendors are everywhere, and they will bug you while you're trying to mind your own business. Just don't make eye contact if possible, and keep walking; don't stop to answer anyone. It's not that they are dangerous; they're just annoying, and once they reel you in, it'll be awhile before you get back out of their clutches, so it's best not to get reeled in in the first place. That's why I said Peru is a great place to visit but not to live.

Traveling to Peru and Chile are easy. As for Peru, if you are going to be in the country for less than 90 days for tourism, you do not need a passport, and you will be issued a free tourist card. There are no currency restrictions, and you are not required to get any vaccinations to enter the country, but a Yellow Fever vaccine is recommended. Peru's exchange rate is fairly easy to calculate and remember. I just looked up the current exchange rate, and 1 USD is equal to 3.40 Peruvian nuevo soles. They're pretty close. As for Chile, tourists are allowed to stay in the country for up to 90 days without a visa as well. You are not required to have any vaccinations, and there are no currency limitations. However, the exchange rate from USD to Chilean pesos is a bit more challenging that of USD to Peruvian nuevo soles. I just looked up the current exchange rate, and 1 USD currently equals 667.80 Chilean pesos. Confused? Yeah, don't get excited and think there's been a mistake in your favor when they exchange lady at the airport gives you thousands of bills in exchange for 100 USD. It is a confusing exchange rate, but you will get used to it. This trip was so worth it for me; I know it will be for you too!

 One of the two really cool churches in the Plaza de Armas of Cuzco. Notice the locals carved "Viva el Peru" into the mountains behind the church.

 The view from my bedroom window in the house in Huambutio.

 A tela-climbing class at the house in Huambutio.

 A lyre-playing class at the house in Huambutio.

I milked a cow! (Well, I tried.)

Saqsaywaman ruins next to "Christ the Redeemer" at the top of a mountain overlooking Cuzco.

 "Christ the Redeemer" at the top of a mountain overlooking Cuzco.

Overlooking Cuzco from the mountain that holds "Christ the Redeemer."

While visiting "Christ the Redeemer," I got to hold a 3-day-old baby llama! Many of the indigenous adults and children wore what the people in this photo were wearing.

 Qoricancha ancient Inca tombs in Cuzco.

 Salinas de Maras, or salt pools outside of Cuzco.

 Moray Inca ruins outside of Cuzco.

The view of the city below Ollantaytambo Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley.

Pisaq Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley.

Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world, known as the home of many condors.

The Inca Trail, which I hiked to get to Aguas Calientes, and ultimately make it to Machu Picchu.

The baths in Aguas Calientes.

Machu Picchu in all its glory.

 Machu Picchu is so far up the mountain that it's above the clouds.

Machu Picchu.

The best friends I could've ever met in Peru.

 Salar de Atacama, or the second largest salt flat in the world outside of San Pedro de Atacama.

 Laguna Miñiques outside of San Pedro de Atacama.

The Valley of the Cactus - hot up front, cold in the back - outside of San Pedro de Atacama.

Tatio Geysers outside of San Pedro de Atacama.

 Moon Valley outside of San Pedro de Atacama.

Death Valley outside of San Pedro de Atacama.

#18: Ecuador, Fall-Winter 2010

I have saved this blog entry for when I felt like I could really spend some time on it and do this country justice. I lived in Ecuador and worked in wildlife refuge there for a few months, and it was the best time of my life. I took a year off of college to go find myself, travel, volunteer, play, and work, and it's the best decision of my life so far. It shaped who I am and what I ended up deciding to do with my life. It made me realize just how in love with the environment I am, how much I want to protect it, and how much I want to spend my life working with animals. It's the reason I decided to get a degree in Environmental Science, and why I'm working for an animal pharmaceuticals company currently. It's why my whole future will surround around the care of animals and nature. I recommend everyone who is able to take a year off of school before deciding what to study, where to get your higher education, and what to do with your life, especially if you're not sure what you want. Some people know from a very young age, even from childhood, what they want to do with their future, but most people don't. And even if you are sure, traveling, volunteering, and working in another country can still help you find yourself and open your eyes to whole new worlds and experiences that you can only get from living it. Everyone could use a little dabbling in another culture, seeing with your own eyes the struggles and pains of other people in less fortunate countries, living in someone else's shoes, learning new languages, embracing new arts and customs, living new unforgettable experiences, meeting new and different kinds of people, becoming independent by traveling alone, and so much more. I traveled by myself to Ecuador and met so many incredible people along the way. Ecuador is a memory I'll carry with me for the rest of my life, but it's more than a memory; it's a lifestyle ingrained in me.

Now that I've convinced you to take a gap year between high school and college (or maybe between college and starting your career,) I'll explain why Ecuador is a great destination choice. Now the capital city of Quito is a neat place. You have the Basilica del Voto Nacional with amphibian and reptile gargoyles, the Virgin of Quito overlooking the city, the overlook building to view the entire city from above, the President's house and other official buildings, the equator monument, the volcano Cotopaxi, many monuments and statues, night clubs, and restaurants.

However, when in Ecuador, you must go into the jungle to get the best experiences from such a beautiful country. I worked and stayed at Sacha Yacu Wild Animals Rescue Center on the edge of the jungle, in Colonia Bolívar. Working in the refuge, I spent time with monkeys of many kinds, all kinds of birds, tortoises, a kinkajou, coatis, a Tayra Weasel, and peccaries (a kind of wild pig.) Working in the refuge, I got to feed the animals, clean their enclosures, and make them toys. We helped build a new wildlife refuge from the ground up. We also worked with the elementary school across the street and made lesson plans here and there, mostly about the importance of recycling and taking care of our planet. We had parties, danced, played guitar, made rope swings over water, painted our faces with Achote fruits, attended street parades, drank beer and rum, jumped from bridges into water, hiked to waterfalls, hiked to nowhere in particular, visited local markets, partied in nearby cities, partied at the refuge, had bonfires, attended city celebrations in the nearby cities, play sports with neighborhood children, and so much more. And, of course, we played with the more domesticated animals at the refuge (such as Little Coati, the cutest little raccoon-like mammal on the planet!) The jungle is full of amazing adventures, and Ecuadorians are always up for an adventure. They live their lives by the saying, "Work hard, play hard." Living like a local was an incredible experience, because they really do work hard, but they also play while they're working, and they play hardcore on the weekends.

You can always access internet in internet cafes in actual cities. Since I lived on the edge of the jungle, I didn't have internet access, except when I made my weekend trips into a city about an hour away called Puyo. But if you choose Ecuador as your trip destination, you won't want to spend your time online. My favorite part of Ecuador was the city Baños, which is a few hours away from Colonia Bolívar. If you like adventure and extreme sports, Baños is the city for you! It is known for its hot baths, but I never went to them. Some friends told me they were too crowded and no fun at all, so I skipped out on it. However, I did go canyoning, or repelling from waterfalls, which was incredible! Baños also offers horseback-riding, street go-karting, swinging at the end of the world in La Casa del Arbol, river rafting, tubing, canoeing, kayaking, ziplining, camping, hiking, biking, etc. I explored the city; ate homemade taffy, which they make on the streets right in front of you; drank sugar cane juice (too sweet, but eating actual sugar cane is delicious); shopped around the city; went on a hiking tour to several waterfalls; rode in a cable car; and partied at some awesome bars. We even stayed in a hostel with a developed rooftop, and we partied on the roof! If you are into exotic foods, you can find cuy, or guinea pig, all over Baños. It is a delicacy that I was never brave enough to try; however, the locals say it is delicious.

Ecuador is a great country to travel to if you're low on funds. The hostels are decent quality for low prices. You can find hostels for $5 per night per person, and they have hot showers and warm beds. Sometimes you even get your own personal room for the same low prices. It's even cheaper to eat out at a local family-owned restaurant than to cook your own groceries! You can go to a local restaurant and get a full meal of grilled chicken, rice, lentil beans, salad, fried plantains for dessert, and a Coke for $1.50! Make sure to try those fried plantains, especially with brown sugar! Ecuadorian empanadas are the best; you won't get the full experience of the country if you miss out on this deliciousness! Since I lived in the jungle, it was easy to pick fruit and vegetables out of the ground and off the trees for free, and boy, was everything delicious! You should definitely try fresh sugar cane and cacao seeds. The seeds are delicious to suck on, and the locals can show you how to crush the remains and turn them into sweet chocolate.

Ecuador is great, because you don't have to worry about anything while you're there. The national currency is the U.S. dollar, so you don't have to worry about exchange rates or switching out your money. It's easy to negotiate prices with locals, but there's really no need, because everything is cheap, although it's more expensive in Quito, since it's a big city, but everywhere else, everything is super cheap. There are lavanderías all over the place, so if you need to do laundry, just drop your clothes off at one, and within a couple of hours, they will have washed, dried, and folded your clothes for only a couple of dollars.

You can easily get around Ecuador, because the country has excellent public transportation. No one in Ecuador owns a car, so just get ready to ride lots of buses and take lots of taxi rides. They are very cheap, but watch out for people who will try to make extra money off of you, because you are a traveler. They will tell you a cab ride costs double what it actually costs, so make sure to either have them run a meter, or ask the price of the cab ride before you take it. A ride up to 10 minutes away should never cost you more than $1. You can probably get a cab ride farther away for that price, to be honest. Transportation in Ecuador is super cheap, including bus tickets. When you want to get off at a stop while riding a bus, you say "Gracias!" loudly enough for the driver to hear, and he will let you off. Try to learn a little Spanish before you go, because no one in Ecuador speaks English. Even the locals who ran the wildlife refuge didn't speak English. Don't let that hinder you from going to Ecuador, though; the locals are very patient and helpful, and I met plenty of travelers who didn't speak Spanish but still got around the country easily.

The people are fun and, for the most part, trustworthy. They are interested in travelers and want to hear about your experiences and your country and life. They want to become your friend. It is a pretty safe, laid back country. When you are traveling, you should always be on the lookout for crooks and creeps, but that is a rule of thumb anywhere you go. Chances are, the best people you will ever meet on your travels will be from Ecuador. You don't have to worry about diseases or terrorism while there either. Before I went, everyone told me I was going to get AIDS. People who know nothing about Ecuador will make up all kinds of silly myths to scare you into visiting a country they don't know anything about, or that they are afraid of for some other illegitimate reason. Don't ever let someone talk you into staying away from a country when they actually don't know anything about the country in question. Look up all the information for yourself before choosing a travel destination. You can find everything you need to know on this website: https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/ecuador.html.

Remember this is the jungle we are talking about. Bring lots of bug spray! There are mosquitoes like crazy, as well as all kinds of other creepy crawlers. A lot of them are really neat, though, as many of the insects are a good 20 times the size of the bugs you see here in the U.S. and other western countries. Be careful which insects you touch. Many locals will tell you what's poisonous and what's not. When in doubt, look from afar. Every hostel, hotel, or friend's house you stay in will be equipped with a mosquito net for you, but if you go camping, a mosquito net is a must! When I lived there, there was no real threat of mosquito-borne diseases, but the bites can be quite irritating, of course. Remember there's a lot of rain, mud, & dirt in the rainforest as well. A country like Ecuador, which is located on the equator, is hot and somewhat humid. Take a rain jacket and rain boots (or buy some when you get there;) they'll be your best friends. Take loose-fitting, cool clothing with you. Bring a light sweater for night time chills, which do happen, even in the rainforest. It's best to travel with a rucksack, rather than a suitcase. This isn't Coachella, New York City, or London; this is a trip for people who don't mind getting a little dirty for the sake of the most beautiful hikes, scenery, & animals you'll ever see. Pack with intelligence & proper anticipation!

Ecuador is also an easy country to travel to. As a U.S. citizen, I didn't need a visa to stay in the country for up to 90 days for tourism. Yes, I had to tell them I was a tourist to avoid having to get a visa, but it was fine. There are no currency restrictions in or out of the country. The only thing that is a bit annoying is that the country does require you to have a record of several up-to-date vaccines, including Yellow Fever, Measles-Mumps-Rubella (MMR,) Polio, Tetanus, as well as a yearly flu shot. Ecuador does not have these diseases, and no one wants them there, so don't bring them! You'll have to go to an Urgent Care for most of these injections, because regular physicians won't carry those shots; some of them are too uncommon in the United States, so only clinics that treat travelers on a regular basis will have them in stock. Keep your vaccination papers on you when you travel. I was never asked for mine, but you never know when someone will inquire about your records.

I told you the Quito basilica's garagoyles are various amphibians and reptiles!

 These are mosquito nets and an essential part of life in Ecuador. Don't worry, you get used to them. This was my bed most of the time I lived at the refuge.

 The living room at the refuge is behind us, and we are sitting at the kitchen table. This is the group of workers I met and befriended when I first started working at the refuge. Workers came and went throughout my time there, though.

 Our kitchen at the refuge.

My friend Adrian jumping off a bridge in Puyo.

 This is Songo Songo, the most beautiful monkey at the refuge.

 I told you we made a swing to swing over the creek nearby!

 You could see this volcano from the steps heading up to the refuge.

 Adrian and another friend Paco swinging over "La Laguna."

 This was a party we had with the family who runs the refuge; they live in a house downstairs from the refuge. The people in the photo are doing the "Tomato Dance," where you balance a tomato between two people's foreheads while dancing; the last people standing with the tomato between them win.

 Cacao in the jungle!

 This was my favorite baby at the refuge: Little Coati. She was so domesticated that she needed plenty of play time with her human friends, and she was never able to be rehabilitated and released.

 This is a kinkajou. He might be cute, but he's vicious, so don't give in to those eyes. If you see one of these in the jungle, run like your life depends on it.

 This is a peccary.

 We hiked to this waterfall.

 This is not a snake; it's a giant earthworm. And my friend Crystallee licked it...

 My friend Crystallee and I played in a plastic bag and a grocery worker named María in a skit for the kids at the school across the street.

This is where we had our bonfires. I miss my friends!

The volcano Cotopaxi, outside of Quito.

La Casa del Arbol "End of the World" swing in Baños. I didn't get to do this while I was in Ecuador, but I am determined to do it next time.